Many smoke-flavored products may disappear in wake of new EU food safety rules

The European Food Safety Authority has reported that the smoking flavorings currently used in Europe may not be safe, and now the European Commission is considering a decision that could remove many products from shelves for years. Maag Grupp, one of Estonia's largest meat producers, fears costs amounting to millions of euros.
When the smoke generated from heating wood is cooled down and collected, it becomes a unique seasoning – so-called liquid smoke. After purification, a preparation is created that can be mixed into food or spread on food, thus bringing smoked flavor products to the market. The preparation can also be turned back into smoke using a specific device. Many smoked products in Estonia are made this way.
In 2014, the European Commission authorized the use of ten such preparations. These authorizations were supposed to be valid until the beginning of this year, and eight of the license holders applied for an extension.
Last November, the European Food Safety Authority published new safety assessments for the preparation.
"From 2009 to 2012 was the first assessment, based on which these licenses were granted," Maia Radin, the head of chemical and biological safety of food and feed at the Regional Ministry, told ERR. "However, in the evaluation process for new licenses, the European Food Safety Authority has used updated methodology," she added.
Poses a threat to genetic material
Now, the principle is that if at least one component of a mixture is genotoxic, meaning it can damage the genetic material of a cell, then the entire mixture is assessed as genotoxic. Viewing the matter in this way, the European Food Safety Authority consistently used the term "cause for concern."
For two of the preparations, the authority did not have sufficient data to be convinced of their safety. In the remaining six, at least one, and sometimes several, genotoxic compounds were found.
"For all eight, the conclusion was made that their use cannot be considered safe. And when we talk about genotoxicity, it's not possible to establish a safe level for such a substance," said Radin. Consequently, the European Commission cannot simply recommend adding less of the substance.
Since the procedure is taking longer than expected, the use authorization for the eight preparations was extended until the end of June. "The European Commission is preparing decisions on what will happen with these compounds moving forward. As of today, the drafts have not yet been shared with the member states," Radin stated.
Weenies, sausages and baloney
According to the European Food Safety Authority, smoking preparations are added to meat, fish and cheese products.
In Estonian stores, for example, one can find smoked-flavor herring fillets, various sauces and potato chips.
The head of the Estonian Food Industry Association, Sirje Potisepp, noted that until now, the use of smoking preparations has been considered safer than so-called natural smoking. According to her, this preparation is mainly used in meat products in Estonia.
"Wiener sausages, frankfurters, boiled sausages," listed Potisepp. "And this is done because people simply like the taste of smoke," she added.
Potisepp pointed out that if the European Commission does not extend the use licenses for smoking preparations, it would require, for example, Maag Group to incur costs running into millions of euros. To put it simply, instead of using preparations, it would be necessary to return to so-called real smoking.
Maag Group owns, among others, the Rakvere meat processing plant, Ranna-Rootsi meat processing plant and the Tallegg brand.
"This could mean quite a big change," said Potisepp. "And it will definitely take time before the company can make such an investment. It's going to be painful, I don't even want to think about it."
Companies hoping for a decade-long transition
In a letter sent to the Regional Ministry, the Food Industry Association and the Chamber of Agriculture and Commerce noted that the immediate ban on smoking preparations would remove several viennas, frankfurters and grilled sausages produced by AS Maag from the market.
"The shutdown of the production line and smoking ovens operating on liquid smoke would result in the loss of up to 100 jobs," the letter states.
Potisepp emphasized that safety is also important to food producers. "The European Food Safety Authority has taken a position to be relatively strict in its assessments, especially in recent years, preferring to err on the side of caution," she noted.
According to Potisepp, Estonian food industries hope that if the European Commission does not extend the use licenses for smoking preparations, the Regional Ministry will seek the longest possible transition period for these substances, up to ten years.
This would give sausage producers time to replace their equipment, and producers of smoking preparations could develop technology to cleanse the mixtures of harmful substances.
Ministry: New and safe products may hit the market in the future
According to Potisepp, the decision on whether to grant or not grant the permission could happen as early as April. Maia Radin stated that the decision would be made through a vote by the member states.
What Estonia's stance is remains unclear.
Radin confirmed that before shaping a position, it's necessary to wait for the draft to emerge in the Commission and consider several factors. "One thing is definitely the risk and danger to consumer health. But the economic impacts are also taken into account," Radin said.
Radin added that if the smoking preparations currently on the market are banned, it doesn't mean that smoke flavor can only come from real smokehouses forever. In the future, new and safer smoking preparations could emerge.
"If the producers of these preparations find a solution, manage to clean it more thoroughly and there is also data confirming that the product is safe, then it's possible to come to the market with the product," Radin said. "And the handlers who have used them can then start using them again."
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Editor: Merili Nael, Marcus Turovski